Runway Rewind: 8 Takeaways from Spring 21 Couture Week
BY: MEG LINDLEY
New York Fashion Week is well underway, but before we are able to dive into all the new trends, we wanted to recap 8 important takeaways from Couture Week. We would expect these trends to continue through the Fall 2021 season and evolve further from there.
clunky footwear
This isn’t the first we are seeing platforms on the runway or in the market. The most adaptable styles in this category were used in Valentino, but the idea of walking great lengths probably wasn’t top of mind. Schiaparelli opted for an edgy look that complimented well with their larger than life accessories. Unfortunately, clogs are part of this trend which we could truly live without. Area bedazzled a pair to compliment a plethora of paillettes and a metallic backdrop.
EXTREME RUFFLEs
The evolution of the ruffle has entered new territory with the ruffle details debuted at couture week. The workmanship alone must have taken hours to execute. Ronald Van Der Kemp took on a retro perspective that makes you want to go back in time to Studio 54, while Rahul Mishra plays with texture and pattern that has a whimsical feel.
UNEXPECTED COLOR PALETTE & SILHOUETTES
Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Director at Valentino, graced us with a much different kind of couture show this season, incorporating more ready-to-wear looks and less floor length silhouettes with dramatic proportions. He stayed true to the interesting color combos, pops of color, and impeccable tailoring. We can count on Piccioli to mix and match the most beautiful palettes that go against the “rules” of clashing colors.
pearls
Pearls aren’t new by any means, they are being used against all product categories either in a massive statement or just dainty details to catch your eye. Chanel and Dior use pearl accessories in a more traditional way, while Fendi and Valentino embrace modern silhouettes encrusted with head-to-toe pearls. The craftmanship that goes into the perfect placement of each pearl truly makes this couture.
MODERNIZED MESH
The mesh term is used loosely here. The idea of see through statement layers has been played with over the last couple of years. We are seeing new shapes emerging to keep this trend looking fresh. Area took the dramatic route in terms of shape, while Chanel and Valentino used it in a more wearable way that could go straight to the stores.
LARGER THAN LIFE SLEEVES
Schiaparelli plays with proportions in every piece, whether it’s a sizable sleeve or a tiny mini skirt. For Spring 21 Couture, larger-than-life sleeves were a big part of the collection executed in all different ways. The fabric bellowed around each silhouette to create a somewhat structured look regardless of the drapey nature of the textiles.
STANDOUT RTW LOOKS
Rightfully so we are seeing more ready-to-wear looks on the runway, even in couture. The designers would be a miss if they ignored what is happening around the world and didn’t let it change the way they designed their new collections. Valentino was the most surprising in terms of silhouettes, with trench coats, cropped pants, and perfect coordinates.
CAPE silhouettes
From traditional capes working hard as a statement coat to oversized, long overlays that drape down the back that acts more like an added detail. Fendi made a strong statement with a new cape silhouette in multiple looks complimented by printed head-to-toe pant suits.