How Today’s Designers are Illustrating the Rebirth of the Fashion Industry

By: Jonathon Stevison

Naeem Khan // Photo via Vogue Runway

The world of 2020 compared to the 1920’s

We remember the Roaring Twenties as a decade of luxury and celebration. A period of rebirth around the globe where social change, rebuilding a failing economy, and environmental transformation collide birthing a new era of reality that almost seemed like a fantasy. I can hear the smooth sound from the saxophone in harmony with the heartbeat rhythms from the strings of the bass while the glamour of the flapper girls dance in celebration. With lots to celebrate as the Spanish Flu outbreak ended, acceleration of modernization into homes, women granted the right to vote, and the rise of the jazz age celebrating culture.  The spirit of the roaring twenties brought people together which lead to a new way of living and accelerated change for the better and for the future. Today, many are cautious for their health. Minorities are fighting for their lives. All of us are struggling through a global pandemic, divided as a nation, causing uncertainty for the future. The same principles from the 1920’s correlate to events happening today leaving us to fantasize on our rebirth.

Christian Cowan // Photo via Vogue Runway

Reflecting on the inspiration from 2021 runway collections, each designer illustrates their version of reality through Pure Fantasy with heightened focus around mental well-being and activism. In the United States, Americans are approaching a critical election year emphasizing debates of the principles we have debated for the past 100 years. Let’s not forget the impact fashion has within our political landscape. In the 1920’s, women demanded social freedom rebelling by exposing arms and legs and introducing cosmetics. Defining femininity, Coco Chanel designed for the independent woman outfitting with pants which pioneered women entering the workforce. 

Fast forward to the 2008 Great Recession, many designers were affected by the economic downturn. Minimal designs, year prior silhouettes, and somber color palettes created a domino effect that lacked optimism and continued decline in consumer behavior for the entire fashion industry. Today, the runways are full of hope and accountability lifting human spirits forward. With bright jewel tones mixed with intricate and bold sequins patterns, nostalgia of discovery through travel inspiration and print direction building a momentum force of progress. The momentum started in early spring when many designers pivoted energy and resources to PPE production causing smaller collections and more impactful designs for September fashion week.

designers took action

Left: Early spring, Christian Siriano produced masks in his New York studio. Team shipped 10,000+ masks during the pandemic.

With so much courage from front-line workers and designer’s sacrificing business resources, prioritizing mental health is the most courageous action one can take this year. Comfort and Well-Being is more important than ever. Less daily activity and ingesting copious amounts of disturbing news caused many of us to gain a few pounds and deal with some form of depression. Brands turned hurt feelings into taking action by promoting bold graphics that remind us of events that have impacted us this year and will push each of us to Stand Up; Fight Back. A continued conversation to the fashion industry is standing up for climate change centered around sustainability. Many designers, including Marc Jacobs, are changing the conversation with retailers requesting to reduce the number of shows which will minimize waste in resources, manufacturing, and disposable fashion. Simultaneously, new garments have a spotlight on sustainable fabrics and development techniques offering new ways to reduce and reuse creating buzz on being Seasonally Sustainable.

Christian Siriano // Photo via Vogue Runway

They say hindsight is 20/20. As Newton’s Law suggests, every action creates an equal and opposite reaction, the trust of the booming economy in the 1920’s led to excessive spending and abuse of power from commercial companies causing the stock market to crash the global economy leaving many to live in poverty and end an era. Yes, with all that is happening in the world we say we want to go “back to normal” to how the world was before 2020, however, our actions are choosing otherwise. We are in a period of rebirth where social change, rebuilding a failing economy, and environmental transformation collide birthing a new reality. The only difference between the 1920's and 2020, we have the opportunity to learn from historical mistakes and create the action to redefine history. As fashion does for you and me, my hope is we find ways to come together as humans focusing on our similarities instead of seeking differences to divide us.