Paris Couture Week and Chiuri’s Feminist Dior
Collaborator: Gabriela Ramos
Gabriela is an international fashion correspondent that has been published in magazines like Elle and Marie Claire
Maria Grazia Chiuri receiving the “Légion D’Honneur”, Photo Courtesy of Dior
Last Monday Night in Paris, Marlène Schiappa, the Minister of Gender Equality in France, presented Christian Dior's designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri with the "Légion D’Honneur" one of the most prominent awards in the French fashion industry, which translates into an honor and unprecedented success of the work achieved.
In a very emotional speech, Schiappa said "you have proven to all women that we can achieve change if we do it ourselves, as you did". Consequently Chiuri was applauded for her work and for making Dior a feminist brand. This event took place hours after the designer showed her last Haute Couture fashion show, where she declared her focus on clothes is a place where women should define themselves, and Haute Couture is the epitome of this concept.
A collection dominated by the color black (let's say there is nothing more personal than this tone) created a neutrality of silhouettes. Inspired by Bernard Rudofsky who in 1947 wrote an essay wondering "Are Clothes Modern?" the architecture of design was noticed. The first outfit was a Peplos - a kind of historic Greek dress made of jersey, followed by Chenille de Caftan, opulent coats and more peplos made of velvet.
Between tulles, laces and transparencies, Chiuri elevated the importance of the female figure and its sensuality without being vulgar. In fact, the sentiment that transmits is of empowerment and strength, especially in the embroidered collars alluding to the Greek caryatids mixed with leather elements.
Model Hyun Ji Shin Photographed by Alessandro Lucioni
Model Ruth Bell, photographed by Alessandro Lucioni
Model Lineisy Montero, photographed by Alessandro Lucioni
Model Mona Tougaard, photographed by Alessandro Lucioni
The set was designed by Penny Slinger, British American who is known for her artistic form of feminist surrealism, She took elements of the iconic Dior store on Avenue Montaigne and reinterpreted it on the set and prints found in the outfits.
If Chiuri has been enjoying an extreme success, this is without a doubt the most powerful collection she has presented translating in what it seems her moment of greatness.